1900's
Starting with the 'S bend' shape, the era encouraged partying, consumerism and travel. Along came Poiret in 1903 to loosen the stays of corsetry, gracing women with the Empire line dress. Oriental inspired and Grecian-like, the emphasis came under the bust, with the dress falling softly to the ground. Embellishments came in pearls, jewels and tessellating patterns. For the less financially fortunate, Selfridge's put full-page ads in The Times, and mail order offered patterns to dressmakers and home sewing.
The Roaring Twenties was a time of celebration. With the First World War over, women began to experiment with their bodies. In came boyish looks; sailor trousers, blazers, short hair, flattened breasts and a penchant for exercise. In came jazz music to encourage the short-skirted Flappers, art deco and cubism for the free-minded artists, while Chanel brought out her No.5 perfume which didn’t smell at all like a flower.
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| Coco Chanel in 1929 |
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| Gertrude Lawrence |
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| Chloe |
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| Gucci |
1930’s
With the invention of “Talkies” in 1927, the 30’s became a glamour-dream decade. The public could go and see their idols talk, expressing their love and opinions in beautiful dresses while wafting around an elegantly furbished room. Afterwards they would seek to emulate their favourite looks; the Letty Lynton and the Scarlet O’Hara, while getting shocked by a suited Marlene in ‘Blonde Venus’.
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| Dudeney Dresses |
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| Joan Crawford as Letty Lynton |
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Chanel
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1940's
The Second World War called for ladies to give up their luxuries of silk and golf balls to make way for an era of DIY fashion. With men on the front lines, women had to take over the work back home. Their clothes were durable and practical, the colours sharing Vogue's patriotic stance to encourage hope. Skirts became shorter and waists came in to save fabric. Military styled mix-and-match suits became the norm in Europe, while America became the fashion capital for evening wear.
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| Private Hardy Amies puts the finishing touches on a skirt at Lachasse, before returning to duty |
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| Actress Veronica Lake was asked to cut her hair after women who copied her 'peek-a-boo' style, got their hair caught in machinery |
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| Haider Ackerman 2012 |
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| Balenciaga 2005 |
1950's
After the success of the dolls from Theatre de la Mode, Paris was once again the fashion capital, with Christian Dior leading the way with the dreamy 50's silhouette. Nipped in waists and voluminous dresses completely disregarded the post-war poverty. Balenciaga stuck to practicality with a more feminine edge, while Chanel was relaxed, comfortable and non-restrictive. Gone also were the days of couture. The mass marketing that began in the war era continued with Chloe and Pucci launching upmarket, ready-to-wear clothes.
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| Dior in the 50's |
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| Marilyn Monroe in 1954 |
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| Dior A/W 2007-2008 |
1960's
In 1960 Yves Saint Laurent left Dior and took street styles to a new level, with beatniks and pop art inspiring his 1961 collection and the bag dresses from the 50's transformed in a new silhouette. In London, Mary Quant introduced the mini, and skirts and shorts quickly began to rise. With The Beatles, television, drug experimentation and space, youth culture began to influence the fashions like never before and materials like plastic, metal and paper became the norm for garment textiles.
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| (Left) Dior's Sack Dress, (Right) Yves Saint Laurent's Mondrian inspired dresses |
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| Grace Coddington in 1966 |
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| Abbey Lee Kershaw in Alberta Ferretti for i-D |
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| Missoni |
1970's
Woodstock, the Vietnam War, LSD and flower power began the era of free love and free fashion. Designers were influenced by different cultures, thanks to cheaper air travel. But it was the music stars who set the trends. David Bowie, Brian Jones and Keith Richards were wearing printed satins and glam rock outfits made from pre-war corsets. Men and women grew their hair long and flares became the street uniform. Second-hand uni-sex clothes were in and continued to the end of the 70's when The Sex Pistols, Vivienne Westwood, Malcolm McLaren brought in punk and Zandra Rhodes put designer safety pins on the catwalk.
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| Yves Saint Laurent's African Safari Collection |
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| David Bowie as Ziggy Stardust |
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| Farrah Fawcett |
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| Marc Jacobs 2012 Campaign |
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| Vivienne Westwood |
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| Punk in Harajuku, Japan |
1980's
Money circuited fast around the 80's. Labels covered their garments in logos. Faux Opulence was the birth of glittery glamour. Margaret Thatcher was the epitome of power dressing. The New Romantics influenced John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood with frills. Katherine Hamnett stamped slogans on T-shirts. Jean-Paul Gaultier put underwear on the outside. Music, club scenes, runways, politicians and zines like i-D all had an impact in the fast-paced trends.
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| Princess Diana in a 1983 power suit |
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| Dolce and Gabbana's power dressing collection in 2009 |
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| The New Romantics: Spandau Ballet, Adam Ant and Boy George |
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| Yohji Yamamoto's Japanese style was revolutionary in the 80's, loose and cut in a way never seen before |
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| Debbie Harry from Blondie in a Katherine Hamnett slogan T. Hamnett now focuses on slogans with a more ecological political view |
1990's
The decade of
Gangsta/Hip Hop style. Baggy clothes and sideways cap. Made even more popular by Will Smith in 'Fresh Prince of Bel Air'. Made unpopular by Vanilla Ice
Grunge. Dirty jeans and t-shirts for those of the lower working class. Kurt Cobain made it trendy
Glitter, animal prints, platforms and mini skirts. All at once. Spice Girls. (I was always Scary)
Hairstyles came from the best of Friends. Rachel, Joey, Phoebe, Chandler, Monica, Ross
Rollerblades, Dr Martens, and Jellies were the shoes to wear
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| Aside from the colours becoming muted, the style's still pretty much the same. Possibly worse |
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| Alice Dellal, Johnny Depp, Mary-Kate Olsen. Forever in grunge |
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| Sporty, Baby, Scary, Ginger, Posh |
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| Leopard, Minis and Platforms now |
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| Now we have the Gossip Girls to inspire us |
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| Melissa Shoes. The new Jellies |
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